Rome

So many places to talk about, but since we have to start somewhere, why not do it at the cradle of western civilization (ok, leaving Athens aside for now)!

You know, I didn't like Rome when I first started going there. That was mostly during the heat of summer, and with groups of American college kids. Sure, Rome was fun, but I was missing something - a key, sort of. That key came in the form of absence. Yes, I started to miss Rome; the hustle and bustle, the traffic the heat...but that couldn't be it, could it? There was more, and soon I began to realize the city exudes a magic spell on the unsuspecting. The unique combination of elements of over 27 centuries of history, peacefully coexisting in harmony. That I found out was what makes Rome what it is.

My favorite parts of the day in Rome now are lunchtime and the night hours. Lunchtime because I simply enjoy having a tasty Italian meal after a long morning's work with a couple hours of siesta following. My all-time number one location for this undertaking is "Da Nazzareno" on Via Magenta, just a block behind busy Via Marsala and the northern exit of Termini train station. At "Da Nazzareno" it's almost like stepping back in time - you expect Marcello Mastroianni to step out from behind one of the corners any minute. Begin your feastwith a trip to the fabulous buffet (cold and warm dishes, all home made), the order Fettucine ai Funghi Porcini. This muhroom pasta will make forget anything you ever thought you knew about Italian cooking. Not in the mood for 'shrooms today? Opt for Bucatini al'Amatriciana instead; this pasta version - traditionally served at Easter in the town of Amatricia deep in the Abruzzi mountains - consists of a red sauce made with tomatoes, onions, and guanciale (or occasionally panchetta) and the folks at Nazzareno elevate it to a divine level.

Still hungry? A Tagliata (thinky sliced roast beef, cooked rare, and served on a bed of rucoloa) will do the trick. Accompany your meal with an ice-cold house white and a liter of water and you're all set. I then retire to my hotel room - usually one of the classic high-ceiling rooms in one of the hotels in the vicinity, window slightly open, curtains drawn. Siesta in Rome, and life is good!

Later in the afternoon and after a cool shower it's coffee-time! Meet with friends or fellow travelers to enjoy the finest of "caffe'" culture! Rome (and Italy as a whole) is full of "bars" which, unlike their American counterparts, are note solely purveyors of alcohol, but rather coffee houses and meeting points. Walk up to the cashier first and utter your intentions (you're all fluent in Italian, right?) - "un caffee, un amaro", for example, meaning an espresso accompanied by a shot of a delicious Italian category of beverage (think Jaegermeister with a better taste to it). You will be given a receipt ("scontrino"), which - once presented to the person working the counter - will render you a cup of Italy's finest, along with an inquiry pertaining to the brand of amaro you prefer. I ususally choose Ramazzotti, but Averna or Montenegro are great as well. Sip (I repeat, sip, don't shoot) coffee and amaro, alternating. Then you may want a glass of water as well, if not automatically served with yor order. Repeat process as needed ;-)!

At this point I want to mention a great viewpoint well worth a visit. Mosey on down to Capitol Hill, home to the Capitoline Mueseums (highly recommended, by the way!). The westerly wing houses a rooftop cafe featuring a terrace from which you can admire most of Rome's great monuments while sipping great Cappuchino (and you don't even need to buy a ticket to the museum to reach the coffeeshop if you use the side entrance)!

Rome by night offers one of the more amazing experiences to be had in Europe. And I am not talking about wild nightlive, etc., which certainly exists but not much in contrast to many other cities in Italy. No, what I refer to is the atmosphere this town exudes. Walk, and take it all in. Great places to start are the Baroque Rome (begin your walk on Piazza Venezia, just opposite the Victor Emmanuel monument and a little to the west of it). Allow yourself to get lost in the maze of streets and alleyways, and you may just pop out in front of the Pantheon again, or find yourself at the bottom of the Spanish Steps. Or, and this may be the only "touristy" sight I recommend in this context, it may be the surprisingly way-out-of-proportion Trevi Fountain, tucked away from the busy streets into a tight piazza and adorning the back of an adjacent building.

I used to take my groups for a little "Rome-by-night" walk (that was when we were still allowed to take our coaches into Via Milano and through the tunnel...), navigating a narrow street at the bottom of the Quirinal Palace. Then, all of a sudden, we would turn a corner and - whoooooaaaaaa! There it is - Fontana di Trevi in all its majestic presence, usually surrounded by throngs of people and the watchful eye of local police. As a rule of thumb, the later at night you decide to go there, the fewer tourists with cameras, sunburnt noses and "Roma" t-shirts (made in China) will adorn your photographs of the Trevi.

Why is it, by the way (and this would fill an entire other chapter of this blog), that certain nationalities will always dress a certain way when abroad? I bet you I can pick out Americans (no, Birkenstocks are not sexy!), Canadians (feeling the need to set themselves apart from their southerly neighbors by attaching Canadian flags and symbolic maple leaves to every item of clothing and luggage they own), Italians (what is it with those "Invicta" backbags, anyway?) and Germans (think socks & sandals) from any crowd during tourist season...

Back to the Eternal City, another favorite haunt of mine at night is Trastevere, the area across the Tiber river. Have a taxi drop you off at Piazza de' Mercanti, and allow sights, sounds and scents to lead your path. This medieval-looking area has its very own character, and I strongly suggest to try out one of the eating establishments in the area. In fact, another one of my all-time favorite restaurants used to occupy the basement of the building right at the entrance to the piazza - "Ciceruacchio". In the meantime, the edifice was bought by singer and songwriter Antonello Venditi and the restaurant transformed into a more modern and upscale dining venue whose hospitality and pasta has yet to be tested by yours truly.

Before returning to your accommodations stop at the banks of the river and just stand there for a minute. Admire the monstrous Castello Sant'Angelo, see if you can spot the dome of St. Peter's in the distance, and feel the magic this town captures its visitors with, even in the wee hours of the morning.