The Train from Beijing to Lhasa

48 hours on a train! When I first heard the proposition, I was a bit reluctant but soon succumbed to the temptation to try out the world's highest railroad line connecting the Chinese capital of Beijing with Tibet and its cultural center, Lhasa.

Beijing West station was busy on the night of our arrival, train departure is scheduled for 9:30pm and it's a good idea to arrive at least 45 minutes prior to clear security at the station entrance, and make your way to the appropriate waiting room where the Tibet travel permit is checked by the authorities, and on to the platform.

The friendly but serious conductors are helpful in finding the assigned seats, berths beds. Our group had tickets for the "soft sleeper", the most luxurious category on this train. Now make no mistake, I use the word "luxurious" with caution: this is by no means a deluxe train, or deluxe accommodations. The primary function of the Lhasa train is to carry government officials and military personnel between mainland China and Tibet, and us "tourists" are at best being put up with. Those of you who have traveled on overnight trains in Europe, however, will find numerous similarities. Our berths featured 4 beds each, 2 bunks on the left and 2 on the right. Luggage space is a bit of a problem for large, American or Japanese-style trolleys, but there is room underneath the bottom bunks as well as up above the sliding door of the compartment.

The temperature can be individually set for each compartment, but the system doesn't work very well, and it's generally relatively cold on the train.

Sanitary facilities are another story and tales thereof will adore many a Lhasa Train passenger's anecdotes. On one end of each sleeper car there are 2 toilets (one "Western", i.e., conventional, labeled "Ladies", and one Chinese (labeled "Gentlemen", see photo). There are also 3 wash basins whose water pressure resembles a lazy trickle at best, and which get flooded regularly as a result of careless splashing by fellow - mostly Chinese - passengers.

We depart right on time and head out into the night with our minds revolving about what there is to come during the following two and a half days. Our train, T027, features a dining car which is conveniently right next to our carriage. Meals on board are a la carte, breakfast is served from 7:00-9:00am, lunch from 11:30am-1:30pm, and dinner from 6:30pm-9:00pm. The officially posted opening hours of the dining care are pretty much early morning until midnight, but are for the most part politely ignored by the Chinese staff who will be sure to ask you to leave after the assigned dining hours.

"Western Breakfast" consists of 2 slices of deep-fried bread, a fried egg, and a slice of ham. In addition, there is (instant) coffee or tea. Lunch and dinner choices can be made from a printed menu (the same for both meals), but your waitress will point out in basic English that only 5-6 dishes are actually available. These dishes in our case included butterfish in soy-garlic sauce (tasty!), shredded pork with either green peppers or garlic sauce, chicken with green peppers, chicken with vegetables, a beef dish, and a couple of vegetarian options. The selection remained the same for the duration of the entire trip. The quality of the dishes was decent, and all are served with a rather bland egg drop soup as an appetizer, and steamed rice if requested. The pricing, subsidized by the Chinese government, is economical enough (appox. RMB 20 for breakfast, RMB 10 for beverages, RMB 26-35 for mains). There is bottled water available as well (at RMB 5), as well as soft drinks (Coke, Sprite, ice tea and Chinese plum tea), beer (Budweiser brewed in Wuhan, China), and Chinese wine (sold only in bottles of .75ml).

Once again, don't expect too much in terms of customer service. The staff is moderately nice, English is hardly understood, and from time to time passengers are subtly reminded that they are really only a nuisance to the train's crew.

Our compartment featured a power outlet (accommodating Chinese, European and American plugs) under the small table. There are also a few outlets in the dining car (on the sidewall on the first table to the left, and the beverage bar area immediately to the right). Charging cell phones and laptop computers was not a problem, but you will find that network coverage varies greatly throughout the journey and is often unreliable.

The first night and second day passed without any major incidence, the scenery in the provinces of Central China mostly dull - gloomy industrial towns, mining camps and farms with intermittent smaller cities. After stopping in Xining the evening of the first full day, we slowly gain altitude. One more nightly stop in Golmud, then the hissing oxygen valves in the compartments attest to the thinner air. After a good night's sleep, I wander on over into the dining car in the early morning. A glimpse at my GPS (which only works in the rubberized transition elements in between cars, as the metal and treated glass of the carriages prevents any satellite signal from reaching the inside) reveals 14,900ft and climbing.There is also a digital indicator as a part of the train's technical equipment at the end of each carriage providing an altitude readout in meters (see picture).

Personally, I had no problem with the altitude, and did not have to resort to supplemental oxygen (apart from the O2 pumped into the passenger compartments through the train's ventilation system). Some group members, however, complained about headaches, fatigue and similar symptoms. The recommended remedies are Diamox (prescription-only), which should be taken from the stop in Xining onwards, and Ibuprofen-based pain killers as required.

The second morning is also where Tibet's amazing scenery slowly unfolds before us - wide, steppe-like plains, high, snow-capped mountains, and smaller and larger herds of lazily grazing Yak. I caught myself staring at the incredible vastness of Tibet for quite a while.

Several operational stops occur during the day, including one to meet the oncoming train traveling past us in the opposite direction from Lhasa to Beijing. The speeds are generally around 60mph on the Tibetan section of the line, and the train is pulled by large twin-diesels changed in Golmud to replace the electric engines of the lowland segment.

Passing the highest point at Tangula Pass was a non-event, and in the late afternoon we slowly descend through valleys lined with small nomad villages, lakes and what seemed to be small industrial plants towards Lhasa. Our train winds parallel to the meandering river and small highway across a triple-section bridge towards the ending point of the line. The train station in Lhasa is far out from the actual city center (a good 10 minute drive, the reasons being in my humble opinion of political/military nature), and we arrive despite several delays during the 2-day ride about 45 minutes ahead of schedule at 8:00pm. Lhasa train station is a vast complex, and there is seemingly no other activity than the arrival of our train. Passengers are forced to walk across the wide platform, through the building and out onto a barely illuminated plaza to meet their waiting parties, if any. Bear in mind that cars or taxis are not permitted to pull up to the station, so one has to walk another 300ft or so to the curb. Vans and tour buses are parked even further.

In conclusion, the train ride from Beijing to Lhasa is certainly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and add a lot to the avid traveler's horizons. The 48 or so hours do pass, and especially the second half of the journey provides riveting scenery and amazing views. Life on the train is bearable, but by no means luxurious, and should only be undertaken by the more experienced and open-minded traveler.

For more information, and to book your ticket on the Lhasa train, as well as pre and post train packages suiting any budget needs, I highly recommend www.customtravelnetwork.com, or e-mail to info@customtravelnetwork.com, a San Diego, CA, based outfit whose Asia experts will gladly assist you.

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Rome

So many places to talk about, but since we have to start somewhere, why not do it at the cradle of western civilization (ok, leaving Athens aside for now)!

You know, I didn't like Rome when I first started going there. That was mostly during the heat of summer, and with groups of American college kids. Sure, Rome was fun, but I was missing something - a key, sort of. That key came in the form of absence. Yes, I started to miss Rome; the hustle and bustle, the traffic the heat...but that couldn't be it, could it? There was more, and soon I began to realize the city exudes a magic spell on the unsuspecting. The unique combination of elements of over 27 centuries of history, peacefully coexisting in harmony. That I found out was what makes Rome what it is.

My favorite parts of the day in Rome now are lunchtime and the night hours. Lunchtime because I simply enjoy having a tasty Italian meal after a long morning's work with a couple hours of siesta following. My all-time number one location for this undertaking is "Da Nazzareno" on Via Magenta, just a block behind busy Via Marsala and the northern exit of Termini train station. At "Da Nazzareno" it's almost like stepping back in time - you expect Marcello Mastroianni to step out from behind one of the corners any minute. Begin your feastwith a trip to the fabulous buffet (cold and warm dishes, all home made), the order Fettucine ai Funghi Porcini. This muhroom pasta will make forget anything you ever thought you knew about Italian cooking. Not in the mood for 'shrooms today? Opt for Bucatini al'Amatriciana instead; this pasta version - traditionally served at Easter in the town of Amatricia deep in the Abruzzi mountains - consists of a red sauce made with tomatoes, onions, and guanciale (or occasionally panchetta) and the folks at Nazzareno elevate it to a divine level.

Still hungry? A Tagliata (thinky sliced roast beef, cooked rare, and served on a bed of rucoloa) will do the trick. Accompany your meal with an ice-cold house white and a liter of water and you're all set. I then retire to my hotel room - usually one of the classic high-ceiling rooms in one of the hotels in the vicinity, window slightly open, curtains drawn. Siesta in Rome, and life is good!

Later in the afternoon and after a cool shower it's coffee-time! Meet with friends or fellow travelers to enjoy the finest of "caffe'" culture! Rome (and Italy as a whole) is full of "bars" which, unlike their American counterparts, are note solely purveyors of alcohol, but rather coffee houses and meeting points. Walk up to the cashier first and utter your intentions (you're all fluent in Italian, right?) - "un caffee, un amaro", for example, meaning an espresso accompanied by a shot of a delicious Italian category of beverage (think Jaegermeister with a better taste to it). You will be given a receipt ("scontrino"), which - once presented to the person working the counter - will render you a cup of Italy's finest, along with an inquiry pertaining to the brand of amaro you prefer. I ususally choose Ramazzotti, but Averna or Montenegro are great as well. Sip (I repeat, sip, don't shoot) coffee and amaro, alternating. Then you may want a glass of water as well, if not automatically served with yor order. Repeat process as needed ;-)!

At this point I want to mention a great viewpoint well worth a visit. Mosey on down to Capitol Hill, home to the Capitoline Mueseums (highly recommended, by the way!). The westerly wing houses a rooftop cafe featuring a terrace from which you can admire most of Rome's great monuments while sipping great Cappuchino (and you don't even need to buy a ticket to the museum to reach the coffeeshop if you use the side entrance)!

Rome by night offers one of the more amazing experiences to be had in Europe. And I am not talking about wild nightlive, etc., which certainly exists but not much in contrast to many other cities in Italy. No, what I refer to is the atmosphere this town exudes. Walk, and take it all in. Great places to start are the Baroque Rome (begin your walk on Piazza Venezia, just opposite the Victor Emmanuel monument and a little to the west of it). Allow yourself to get lost in the maze of streets and alleyways, and you may just pop out in front of the Pantheon again, or find yourself at the bottom of the Spanish Steps. Or, and this may be the only "touristy" sight I recommend in this context, it may be the surprisingly way-out-of-proportion Trevi Fountain, tucked away from the busy streets into a tight piazza and adorning the back of an adjacent building.

I used to take my groups for a little "Rome-by-night" walk (that was when we were still allowed to take our coaches into Via Milano and through the tunnel...), navigating a narrow street at the bottom of the Quirinal Palace. Then, all of a sudden, we would turn a corner and - whoooooaaaaaa! There it is - Fontana di Trevi in all its majestic presence, usually surrounded by throngs of people and the watchful eye of local police. As a rule of thumb, the later at night you decide to go there, the fewer tourists with cameras, sunburnt noses and "Roma" t-shirts (made in China) will adorn your photographs of the Trevi.

Why is it, by the way (and this would fill an entire other chapter of this blog), that certain nationalities will always dress a certain way when abroad? I bet you I can pick out Americans (no, Birkenstocks are not sexy!), Canadians (feeling the need to set themselves apart from their southerly neighbors by attaching Canadian flags and symbolic maple leaves to every item of clothing and luggage they own), Italians (what is it with those "Invicta" backbags, anyway?) and Germans (think socks & sandals) from any crowd during tourist season...

Back to the Eternal City, another favorite haunt of mine at night is Trastevere, the area across the Tiber river. Have a taxi drop you off at Piazza de' Mercanti, and allow sights, sounds and scents to lead your path. This medieval-looking area has its very own character, and I strongly suggest to try out one of the eating establishments in the area. In fact, another one of my all-time favorite restaurants used to occupy the basement of the building right at the entrance to the piazza - "Ciceruacchio". In the meantime, the edifice was bought by singer and songwriter Antonello Venditi and the restaurant transformed into a more modern and upscale dining venue whose hospitality and pasta has yet to be tested by yours truly.

Before returning to your accommodations stop at the banks of the river and just stand there for a minute. Admire the monstrous Castello Sant'Angelo, see if you can spot the dome of St. Peter's in the distance, and feel the magic this town captures its visitors with, even in the wee hours of the morning.

Bernie the Traveler - Intro

Dear Reader,

After more than 18 years of traveling the world under different lables ("tourist"; "exchange student"; "tour guide";) I thought it is about time to finally bore the world, i.e. the blogger community, with some of my experiences.

I will attempt to structure this blog according to location and content, but most of all my intention is to relate impressions collected over time, therefore the order of my stories is of no particular relevance.

And why should you read my blog in the first place? - Well, first of all I offer you to participate in my travels vicariuously, and you may pick up one or the other idea. Secondly, I shy away from guide-type renditions of certain destinations, but rather intend to convey the feeling a place exerts to my readers. If that appeals to you, please follow me along! If not, no harm done and I hope you find your luck elsewhere!

A couple of words regarding my person: having lived in numerous places over multiple continents, travel has always been a way of living for me. Luckily - although not intentionally - I have been able to somehow do what I enjoy most while being able to pay the bills; among other things, I spend my working hours imposing my impressions and trivia on groups of hapless travelers on touring coaches motoring among the greatest places in Europe and Asia. This mostly happens during the summer months, for the winter I took up residence in a sunnier part of the globe that will allow me to sit under palm trees while typing these lines.

Any characters mentioned in my tales are purely fictional, and any resemblance to persons existing or deceased is unintentional and coincidental.